Discussions

Ok on to a totally different topic. For the second year in a row I bought a Mountain Merrit tomato plant in a container from the same place that has all the varieties. Once again I have blossom end rot on the fruit. I did what they said to do and that’s make sure they have calcium and sodium but didn’t seem to matter. I read about irregular watering issues but watered mine at regular times. If it actually rains in between then what? Back in the day you put the seedlings in the garden and that’s it. Come the fall you had tons of lovely tomatoes. No more patio tomato plants for $12. I will plant mine from seed inside then transplant see if I have better luck. Anybody else have these problems?

I would try more calcium, what have you got to lose.  
 
Edited by DFB, 2020-06-26 18:16:52

This happens to our tomato plants from time to time, and it’s usually from under watering. If we make sure to water them twice a day on schedule they tend to do better. Good luck

Blossom end rot is from lack of calcium, in my experience. I think it depends on your soil, not whether you start your own seeds. I put two extra strength Tums in the hole when I transplant mine into the garden. Then I put two more Tums at the base of each plant every couple of weeks all summer, and let them dissolve.

I've honed my tomato technique over the years. In my experience there's three things that have contributed to my tomato success:  
 
1. Mulch  
2. The Talk of Tomatoes (3-3-4) supplement  
3. Consistent watering  
 
Mulch (I use wood shavings or straw) helps keep the moisture nearer the roots, prevents them from drying out and helps suppress weeds. The Talk of Tomatoes provides calcium (also useful for cucurbits and sweet peppers), and consistent watering helps prevent BER. I've always had more success growing tomatoes in the ground vs. containers, but this technique has worked well for containers too. Hope this is helpful.

Also a possible cause is extremes of cold an heat rather than a more even temperature. The area has seen some wide fluctuations over the past few weeks. Presumably you are growing them in pots rather than in the garden, if so they could well be subject to a large variation in temperature.

I only have one container plant this year . It has the end rot. Tums is a good idea for more calcium. I was crushing egg shells. I also have a dozen other tomato plants growing in my garden that I bought from a Colony west of town. They all seem to be doing fine.

whether flower or vegetable needs to be watered until the excess water runs of the bottom.

yes vegimite , read that many times in gardening books, the uneven temps. of the soil.  
also read that tomatoes do not like cold water, so one of my rain barrels stay in the sun and is black so the water stays warmish.  
but also read that once it starts to flower and bear fruit, needs less water, saying only water thoroughly once a day, .... who knows.... many gardening books will tell u something different.  
Also if u happen to be using tap water, it is suggested that u leave it sit for minimum an hour to rid the chemical in our water.  
Good luck w/ur toms  
 
 
Oh i also water my green and red peppers much less once they flower as i do with my tomatoes.  
seems to work for me.  
 
yes i realize many are saying water more, so may be true, But i don't and i simply don't get rot on ,my toms or peppers.  
Also read in gardening books that the soil should be dry, a couple to a few inches down then water thoroughly the peppers and tomatoes.  
 
Edited by HAGD, 2020-06-27 12:03:53